Guide to Perthshire, Scotland

Introduction

Perthshire lies in central Scotland, around a one hour trip north of Glasgow or Edinburgh. Perth has a mainline rail station. If you don't have time or inclination to travel too far north when you visit Scotland then Perthshire is a perfect destination allowing you to see dramatic mountainous scenery at the start of the Scottish Highlands.

Unique Points

The scenery and natural beauty of Perthshire is stunning. There is so much countryside to see, full of trees, rivers and mountains with walks for all abilities. There are many typical small Scottish towns such as Pitlochry, Dunkeld, Aberfeldy and Crieff. Perth is a very attractive city which lies on the banks of the River Tay.

Perth

I really like Perth, it's quite a laid back yet grand small city. In central Perth there are 2 parks, a good selection of shops, cafes and restaurants, with promenade along the River Tay. I always think of Perth as the "Fair City". However it is not officially a city, it was not approved by the Scottish Executive in the its list of Scottish cities but that has not changed my perception. Perth is a city full of flowers. In Summer there are hanging baskets everywhere. Branklyn Gardens is an interesting small garden run by the National Trust for Scotland. Its star exhibits are blue poppies. Cherrybank Gardens boasts the largest heather collection in Europe.

Perth Museum and Art Gallery looks very impressive from outside with its copper dome and columns. The museum is one of the oldest local museums in Scotland, built in 1824 on the site of a Domenican friary. There is currently an exhibition of 19th century Scottish landscapes many of which portray Perthshire. The Black Watch Museum is on Dalhousie Castle and charts the history of the regirment. The Fergusson Gallery has a large collection by the Scottish Colourist Duncan Fergusson housed in a former water works building, dating from 1832. Perth Festival of the Arts runs annually during from mid May. Horsecross was set up to run Perth Theatre and the new Concert Hall. Various musical events are held around Perthshire.

The Caithness Glass Visitor Centre is located in a industrial estate, where the A9 heads north from Perth. You can watch the glass blowers making the paperwieghts. There is also a kids play area, a restaurant, shop and exhibition. Scone Palace, just outside Perth,was the location of the coronations of Scottish Royalty, when they would sit on the Stone of Scone during the ceremony.

When I am in Perth l like to do a circular walk starting by crossing the river on the railway bridge, at the end of the prom, then along the river bank and through Rodnay Gardens (pictured alongside) with the flower beds and scupltures. You can either take the first bridge back to across the river or continue along the riverbank to the next bridge. I was very sad a few years ago when the council cut down all the lovely mature trees along the river bank to improve flood defences, however I do like the new prom.

Dunkeld

Dunkeld lies 20 miles north of Perth. The Telford Bridge over the Tay was built in 1809 in response to a survey of the roads in Scotland. It is still quite a landmark. Dunkeld Cathedral was first built as a monastry in 730. Much of the town was destroyed during the 1689 Battle of Dunkeld. The "little houses" in Cathedral Road (pictured alongside) are 18th century merchants' houses which were renovated in the 1940s and are now let to local tenants.

The Beatrix Potter Garden is situated in the nieghbouring town of Birnam. to the west of the River Tay. Beatrix Potter spent 12 childhood summers holidaying in the area. During one holiday she wrote a picture letter to friend which developed in "The Tale of Peter Rabbit". The garden celebrates her books with bronze sculptures of several characters. Birnam is also associated with Shakespeare's Macbeth with the reference to moging Birnam Wood to Dunsinane, However the tale of the real Scottish King Macbeth has little in common with the protagonist of Shakespeare's play.

When I visit Dunkeld I usually park at the Hermitage, with its beautiful woodland and river walks. The Hermitage is just off the A9, just north of the Dunkeld exit. When I was doing research for this guide I was surprised to read about the 2 follies erected during the creation of the Hermitage by the Duke of Atholl in the 18th century. I felt pretty foolish as I always though the one of the follies was for real, Ossian's Cave the supposed home of the 3rd century poet. The other folly, Ossian's Hall, a grand room overlooks the Black Linn Falls in the River Braan. The Hall must have been magnificent when it was lined with mirrors to reflect the waterfall and had shutters of coloured glass. The Hall has been recently renovated by the National Trust for Scotland. Until recently the Hermitage was credited with containing the tallest tree in the UK. However recent measurements have meant that a tree near Inverness has knocked the Hermitage's contender into 2nd place. I like to walk from the car park at the Hermitage along to Ossian's Hall, cross the bridge there, turn left and walk along the path, then down to Rumbling Bridge and into Dunkeld. The Loch of the Lowes Visitor Centre, home to a pair of breeding ospreys is a few miles north east of Dunkeld.

Pitlochry

Pitlochry is probably best known for the hydro electric dam and salmon fish ladder. The dam was constructed at the confluence of the River Tummel and Loch Faskally. A salmon ladder was also built to enable the estimated 5000 Atlantic salmon to return upstream to spawn. The ladder consists of 34 ascending chambers along 310 metres. I would recommend a fairly easy circular walk around Loch Faskally, which should take around one hour. Start at the salmon ladder go up the steps behind the salmon ladder and turn right walking alongside the Loch. Then go through a gate and turn right down hill on a minor road, You will come to a footbridge on your right, crossing the loch, after crossing bridge turn right, you will see cafe and boat hire on your left, walk up slope and you reach main road back into Pitlochry. The Dunfallandy Stone is an 8th century Pictish cross slab is located one mile west of Pitlochry. If you would like to visit a whisky distillery there is The Edradour Scotland's smallest distillery and The Blair Atholl one of the oldest working distilleries in Scotland.

Pitlochry Festival Theatre started life in a tent in the early 1950s. due to rationing of bulding materials after the 2nd World War. The founder, John Stewart visited Pitlochry during WW2 and promised to return after victory. The present theatre building was constructed in 1981, If you stay in Pitlochry for a few days you can see a different play every evening. A Garden celebrating around 80 Scottish plant collectors and botanists as been developed around the theatre. Pitlochry Golf Course has been in existence for around 100 years and was christened the "Switzerland of Scotland" in a golf magazine in the 1950s.

The Battle of Killiecrankie was fought 3 miles north of Pitlochry and there is now a visitor centre there. You can admire the mangnificent Queens View, is best know as the stopping place or Queen Victoria on her journey north to her Highland retreat Balmoral. However it was evidently first named after Queen Isobel, the wife of Robert the Bruce Blair Castle is in Blair Atholl, 5 miles north of Pitlochry. It is quite unusual in that it is whitewashed. Just north of Blair Atholl is the House of Bruar, known as the home of country clothing, There is also an Art Gallery exhibiting over 450 pieces.

Aberfeldy

Aberfeldy is a charming small town on the banks of the River Tay. The landmark Wade Bridge opened in 1733. Aberfeldy can be reached via the Small Glen. turning north up to A822 a few miles east of Crieff, in the village of Gilmerton. and then onto the A826, just north of Amulree. It is a most beutiful drive with a scenic descent into Aberfeldy.

The Aberfeldy Distillery was first opened in 1898. If you are luck you may spot a red squirrel as there is a colony close by. The Birks of Aberfeldy is a circular walk up to the Falls of Moness. There is a large car park at the start of the walk, off the A826 as you approach Aberfeldy from the south. The walk can be muddy and bit slippery and there is a an elevation of 170 metres, You can see a plaque at the spot where Robert Burns rested to compose the Birks of Aberfeldy.

The Watermill houses the largest bookshop in the Highlands, an art gallery and a cafe in a Grade Alisted former oatmeal watermill. They offer story times and book reading session for kids and there is a Childrens' Book Festival running from 12 - 13 May 2007. There are various events on offer such as music evening and talks by authors. I was very impressed by the Watermill. It has been a very sympathetic renovation, leaving in many parts of the mill machinerry. There is as impressive selection of books. The cakes in the cafe look scrumptious, I had to refrain as I had to get on with taking photos in the daylight.

The Crannog Centre has an authentic recreation of ancient loch dwellings dating back over 5000 years. They offer events such as weaving with wood or willow, musical evenings, underwater archaeology. The centre is in Kemore, 6 miles west of Aberfeldy, on the banks of Loch Tay. The National Kayak School offers one day introductory courses in sea kayaking and white water kayaking with the only white water run in the UK guaranteed all year on their doorstep.

Crieff

Crieff is a pleasant small town taking it name from the Gaelic for among trees, There are two walks in Crieff which I really like, . The Knock the wooded hill behind Crieff has several possible walk variations. Lady Mary's Walk is a gentler stroll along banks of the River Earn. Crieff Visitor Centre combines a exhibtion about 18th century castle drovers, the Thistle pottery visitor centre, a garden centre and a restaurant. Crieff Highland Ganes started in 1870 and have taken place annually in August except during the First and Second World Wars.

Drummond Castle Gardens are said to be one of the finest formal gardens in Europe is a couple of miles south of Crieff, close the the village of Muthill. I lived in Muthill for 3 years in the mid 1980s. I learned to drive in Crieff so have many memories of stalling the car on the uphill starts in Crieff.